Layered Name Sign

181 likes
3434 opens
1548 copies
17 comments
Jason Peltier

Project by

Jason Peltier

Published On

July 17, 2020

General Information

Layered Name Sign

Like this project Easel logo Open in Easel®
EDWARD BLACK

Hello Jason, I tried to make this project with the X-Carve (I am a beginner) and it didn't turn out for me. Not sure what I did wrong. I am going to try it again but I wanted to ask what bits you used? Thanks for your assistance. Ed

EDWARD BLACK · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

30" x 13" (yes you can cut more than 29.77" on an xcarve) 1/4" downcut 2 spiral endmill for roughing. 60 degree vbit for detail. I typically buy a 3/4" x 7 1/4" x 6' board, cut it in half, joint the mating ends, and glue it up.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

For cleanup after the carve, I use a magnifying headset and an exacto knife first. On a lot of the curves there will be some fuzzies that are easily removed, just tedious. Removing them helps the stain look a lot more even.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

Then I'll go in with a piece of 120 grit and sand most everything. For tight areas, I'll superglue a piece strategically so it will fit in the corners. The superglue on the back of a chunk of 5" disc sandpaper can really stiffen it up into a fine point.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

Once everything is sanded smooth, I'll use prestain to prevent blotchy coloring. Then it's Varathane classic golden oak. This is the thin penetrating style. Immediately after, I'll use Varathane premium dark walnut and some paint brushes to carefully paint the last name.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

After about 24 hours and the stain is dry, I'll use 120 grit on my orbital to sand off the top of the uncarved stuff, first names, 'established', and the design. Then it's 3+ coats of Deft lacquer. That stuff is amazing and easy to apply.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

Some errors that you will encounter: I haven't had a single one of these work perfectly in regards to z-probing correctly. I always have to run a toolpath again. Still not sure how this gets messed up. I've tried many different methods.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

Jason Peltier

Blowing out the delicate ends. I slow down the detail carve when it gets to the thin tips of letters and for all of the 'established' section. When an end gets blown out, I just sand it at an angle. As long as it's bare wood like the rest of the word, no one will notice it's not flat like the rest.

Jason Peltier · November 23, 2020

EDWARD BLACK

AWESOME! Thank you!

EDWARD BLACK · December 06, 2020

Anita Chang

I don't see the 1/4" downcut 2 spiral endmill for roughing bit on Inventables bit list. Where'd you buy yours?

Anita Chang · March 15, 2021

Jason Peltier

Anita: It's a little pricey, but it's a workhorse. The Amana 46421-K. https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14076-46421-k.html

Jason Peltier · March 15, 2021

Anita Chang

Aloha, Jason. I was looking into the Amana bits. Do they last long?

Anita Chang · March 16, 2021

Travis Langlois

Anita, ive used both Seinci Labs bits as well as Amana, the Amana bit easily out lasts and out preforms the later.

Travis Langlois · January 03, 2022

cmckercher

lots of great info. still learning basic skills but thank you

cmckercher · February 12, 2022

DOUG

great info from everyone, Thanks

DOUG · February 23, 2023

Ana Monrroy

Jason, Wonderful information, I have a question for you, I have the Shapioko 4 Carvide 3D, unfortunately I can't connect my CNC with the program, in this case, how can I work the bit changes? Do you know if when I download my g-code it will automatically download these bit changes too? Thank you.

Ana Monrroy · March 10, 2023

Igor Parshyn

hello can you tell what spindle speed you use ? and feed rate? thank you so much

Igor Parshyn · April 17, 2024